Summer 2018 in NB, Canada and plans for the fall

Brothers: Laurie, Mike and Ken acting clever?? at the wedding

As we write this, at Grand Lake, NB, we have weather patterns of winds and snow passing through in quick succession.  My outdoor chores for the winter are completed, and we’ve finished up ordering parts and sorting out our needs for Grenada.

The most significant happening this season was the flooding of the lower St. John River valley.  During the rising waters in May, we helped our neighbours scramble to move goods out of basements, then sandbagging, then out of yards and storage buildings, then out of main floors of homes and cottages.  We put our feet up during the peak flood to watch furniture, decks, and refrigerators float by our house in the ice (with a few rowboat trips to retrieve neighbours’ items); then went into high gear to remove sodden remains in garages, basements, and homes, rip up carpets and underlays, flooring, exterior walls and cupboards to get out wet insulation and disinfect.  We had a short break again while everything dried; then helped whom we could with reinstalling insulation, vapour barrier, new floors, and wall finishes.  It was the year that wainscoting came back in fashion, as many properties reconstructed the bottom third of their walls.   I even had to relearn how to hang doors. 

Sandbagging ahead of the flood.  Note:  the water crested the bags.

Laurie fetching the neighbour's stairway.  A hard row before breakfast! 

Fridge, float and iceflow in front of our cottage. 

Finally making progress against the wind.

The flooding involved cottages on numerous lakes and bays, and the complete valley from Mactaquac to and including Saint John.  Numerous properties have been condemned, and some of our near friends and neighbours are still fixing damage, five months later.  Our side of Grand Lake, regardless of the damage, fared better than other areas.  At high water, a north-west 90km/h wind arrived that delivered waves to some areas that destroyed properties better than bombs could. 

Our own property only suffered some erosion and exterior damage, a wet mess in our crawlspace, and the loss of less than 100 square feet of insulation that was buried under the deck, along the front wall.  With no living-space damage, (we had 15 inches spare before we would have had serious damage inside) we were free to help out others until their basic needs were met.  Indeed, yesterday’s chores just put complete on our own damage. 

It was not all drudgery, however.  Our work teams got together for numerous meals and camaraderie, and that was fun.  After all, we can’t get that feeling of accomplishment without actually doing anything. 

Jeanne and Doug's cottage.  Wainscoting??  Very stylish after the flood of 2018!

We had our usual parties at the Lake over and above the flood-workers’ fare: with a barbecue every Friday night.  Dawn and I were able to host out of doors on our deck twice without a mosquito problem, as the wet spring was followed by a drought. 

The spring, summer and fall had other events as well.  As soon as we got home, we were off to attend the most fantastic wedding of our lives.  Our niece Marilyn was marrying her man Sean, and put together a fantastic weekend in St. Andrews at the famous and historic Algonquin Hotel.  Family get togethers, fantastic food, dancing and music, and all as the newlyweds’ guests. 

Sean & Marilyn.  What a beautiful wedding.  Thanks for letting us share your wonderful day!

Getting reacquainted with nephew Peter and his daughter Emily at Marilyn's wedding. Lolly is stitting in the background.

What is it with these brothers and napkin hats?

Soon after that, I gave two historical presentations regarding Fredericton’s old water treatment plant – one to engineers and one to citizens, resulting in one more big brass plaque on the building.  It was exciting for me, and reawakened some serious interest in things historical.

Laurie gave a public presentation at a plaqueing ceremony.

As is custom, we did a little trip with Brian and Paula of s/v Magique (for sale now); a camping and biking expedition in Kejimkujik National Park in Nova Scotia.  It was a blast.  Dawn showed off her new 8-person barrel tent that she insists is an appropriate 2-person, and her new 11x11x7 kitchen tent – at least she will tent!  Dawn and I followed the camping with two nights in a spa hotel and a tour with Uncorked Tours NS, where we were the only showups that particular day.  We had intimate visits to a vineyard and winery, a brewery, a distillery, and finally a cidery.  A most enjoyable day.

We got visits from my brother Paul and his wife Alida from Calgary, and Dawn got to spend time with her sister Lorna and her husband Brian, in the company of her other sisters and her mother.   Of course, we both enjoyed time with our friends and relatives at so many opportunities.

Laurie, Paula & Brian biking in Kejimkujik 

Paula, Dawn & Brian biking 

Dawn's new roomy, deluxe tent 

Dawn's new picnic tent!

Wine sampling in the Annapolis Valley, Nova Scotia

We also got out on the Hobie 21, “Madman Across the Water”, a few times.  One day it was windy enough for Dawn to trapeze – but as there were no other boats out there and rescue would have been an issue, she didn’t much care for it.  I also got to do some racing on brother Mike’s Laser 28.  We didn’t do so well, but we had a good time with fun sailing, and I got reacquainted with his sailing club.

Laurie crewing for Mike on a Wednesday night race (Laser 28)

Now, for some upsetting news:  I (Laurie) have had some gastro-intestinal pain that we and our Doctor agree must be sorted out.  We have had testing with inconclusive results, and are waiting on some imaging scope work.  The normal scheduling problems are occurring as fair triage puts me a little bit back behind some others likely in worse shape.  Having been bounced ahead of the pack in the past, it is time to take a turn in the “waiting room”.  This means we’re giving up our tickets and waiting for the opportunity to reschedule on the far side of this, whenever that is.

So, the anticipation of a week of hard work in the boatyard, and the excitement of the launch is being replaced with plans for short trips and possibly another round of visits with friends and family.  Not so bad.  We’ll keep you posted.

Laurie moves quickly when the happy hour bell rings!

Sisters Valerie, Lorna, Kathy, Jean (mom) and Dawn at a lunch at Windsor Court. 

Host Liz, and guests Jane and David at the 14th and final Pig Roast.  Looking forward to others taking on the task next year.

 

END OF SEASON WRAP-UP!

Dawn and I are back in our cute, cozy cottage on Grand Lake, NB.  We moved out of a tiny house and into a slightly larger tiny house!  The season was great, but it is also nice to be staring into the fire, watching television, looking at the foggy ice, taking hot showers, and dropping dirty dishes into the slot in the dishwasher.  Having real bandwidth is fun too.  I’ll be waiting until next week to set up the hot tub and clean up the yard.  We are looking forward to attending a wedding in St. Andrews on Saturday, and we’re rushing around for appropriate attire.

I would like to take the time here to acknowledge Hugh Whalen and Liz Abraham.  We landed at the Fredericton Airport late Tuesday, and simply walked out and into their car to be whisked to their home for pizza and refreshments.  Hugh had my car at his door, with the battery charged, so we could drive the last miles to our own home.

Hugh checked on our cottage every Sunday for all of the winter, as he has since we started this.  He also does this service for the rest of the neighbourhood.  We could not do what we do all winter, every winter, without Hugh; and it is impossible to make it up to him, or even properly explain what it means to us.  Liz writes to us every Sunday to keep us up to date of the happenings at home.

We started our weblogs back in 2004; and for the first two years, the weblog did not accept pictures.  Well, we are almost back to that, as we just did not take the pictures we need at the end of this season.  Well, we’ll do what we can...

We had a lovely sail down to Carriacou on the 29^th of March, timing it to clear Customs without holiday charges; and we stayed 8 days before heading to St. Georges, Grenada.  Our time in Carriacou was slow, with us ramping up on our work to put the boat away: Dawn cleaning inside areas with strong vinegar/water solution to avoid possible mold, Laurie starting engine work and doing some gelcoat repairs.  Except for some fun with Joanna and Bill of s/v Baidarka and Cathy and Tom of s/v Jumby, we stayed quiet with the work, some puzzles, and getting a bit of exercise.

Just how many people can fit on Peggy's Rock?  Always room for one more, just like a Caribbean bus/van! This was taken back in Bequia.

Anina (s/v Prism) found a secluded spot dangling over the airport runway!  Anina often organizes our hikes and challenges our legs and bodies!

The trip to St. Georges was also an easy, fun sail; and after trying to get holding in the anchorage outside the harbour, we stayed only one night before going into the marina of Port Louis for two nights.  We washed and waxed the exterior of the boat and enjoyed two lovely meals before motoring around the corner and into Prickly Bay.  There, too, we got ashore for some meals and fun, but focused on oil changes and interior cleaning.  We did get on a Hash hike with Cindy and Dan of s/v Sittatunga,  Kim & Dean Martin of s/v Dream Catcher, and Ken & Grace of s/v Pisces. 

Haulout was normal on Tuesday, April 17^th, and we went directly to work to make the best of the short six days on the hard. 

The season, in retrospect was a wet and windy one.  We did well to get up to Dominica; and indeed, with the amount of destruction caused by the northern hurricanes, there was little reason to go further.  We spent an inordinate amount of time in St. Anne; enjoying the crowd of old and some new friends there.  We had an outrageous Christmas party on s/v Tarantella, and a killer New Year’s party in our cockpit with 12 of us.  Interestingly, the season was filled with so many friends in all the southern anchorages (not a chance to name them all), that having cockpit cocktail parties were curtailed in favour of afternoon lunches ashore, usually after a hiking party.  Still very enjoyable.

The sailing, for me was lovely, though limited to the very few weather windows the season provided – but for Dawn there were a couple of crossings she would have rather missed.  The trip between Dominica to Martinique was one!

The season saw the end of Denis’ weather, a revival of the FOD SSB Net, great hikes with crowds, fantastic lunches, and sadly, the end of Lorna and Brian’s Caribbean experience with s/v Peace and Plenty.
Lastly, we got three articles published in the Caribbean Compass.  You can see the latest one here, in April’s on-line version, on page 30-31:  http://www.caribbeancompass.com/online.html

We're ending this season's blogging with a little story of Dawn being a hero:

When we paid for a 2 day stay at Port Louis Marina, we had time to eat out and laze a bit by the pool in the afternoon once the work was done.  I was reading a book while Dawn was watching 3 little children (about 2, 4 and 6 years old) all decked out in their waterwings play with their mom and dad.  They were very entertaining and the parents were most attentive.  At one point, the oldest daughter took off her waterwings to show mom and dad that she could swim a few strokes.  This went on for awhile and eventually, Dawn spotted the 4 year old getting out of the water and taking off her waterwings, evidently wanting to copy the older sister's actions.  Dawn watched carefully, knowing that neither mom or dad had picked up on this turn of events.  The little one walked the 3 steps into the pool and simply sunk.  Not a peep, no flailing, nothing, just a cloud of hair on the surface.  Dawn sprinted over screaming all the way.  The parents pulled her out and nearly fainted at what might have happened.  The mother asked later how long we thought the child was under and we were happy to report that it was a matter of seconds.  Glad this turned out well.

These are little pottery fish bought from an artist in Bequia.  They will go with the 2 large pottery fish that Dawn bought from the same artist last year.

Cat Tales at the dock in St. George's, Grenada.  This is where we worked to wash and put leave-on wax on the outside of the hulls to save time once we're hauled.

TECHNICAL

I’ve been offered some technical assistance by my friend Roger Michaud, who intends to get to the bottom of my issue with oil pressure senders.  He intends to test and inspect the three failed senders as well as analyse the season’s oil filter.  I am intrigued.

After the boat was out of the water, I borrowed a grinder and ground into 8 funny mounds on the interior stern of the hulls above the water line, until each squirted the yellow, vinegar-like substance that proves the bumps are related to osmosis.  I am letting them dry out, and will fill them with glass and gelcoat upon our return in November.  I hope to start the repair process with the low viscosity epoxy: “Git Rot”; so capillary action might carry the material down the channel that the fluid originally traveled.  I will have to do some research on this first.

Laurie working with a borrowed grinder and borrowed face mask.

Pungent water oozing out of one of the osmosis bumps Laurie grinded out.

You can see the osmosis byproduct seeping down the side of the hull over the hull stripe.

This heavy fitting's threads failed to hold back the 900 psi water of our watermaker, and got eroded.

We also took out the port escape hatch, on the inside and down by the waterline.  We had become convinced it was leaking and, indeed, the caulking had failed.  We think the caulking failed because of the manufacture of aluminum salts as the frame corroded.  We sanded the frame down and applied an expensive primer prior to reinstalling to attempt to stop the process from recurring.  Were I to do it over, I would have sprayed the frame with zinc chromate before the primer, but I didn’t think it out.  We still have to track down the gasket material for this 1996 hatch before we complete the installation.  Wish us luck.

A dismantling and analysis of the watermaker assembly found numerous parts that need to be replaced.  If something drips at 900 psi, you can expect some corrosion and erosion.

The mainsail and boombag went into the sailmakers, and although we have not seen the results, a repair and inspection cost $800 Can.  The sailmaker said that it had suffered some sunburning, and easily ripped the top panel in front of us.  Still, that mainsail is from 2004, and it will hopefully do for another few seasons.

We are also having to make decisions on a new trampoline, with a probable cost of $1800 Can., and we’ll likely buy new chain in Grenada this fall as well.  The old one just will not stay in the gypsy any more.

As for the season on Cat Tales, we can say she worked rather well; requiring not really as much time in repairs as in past seasons; in spite of the work we are facing.

HI FROM BEQUIA, ST. VINCENT

Yesterday, we announced on the FOD (Friends of Denis) morning net that Dawn and I were going for a walk on Lower Bay, just to snoop around and climb some of the steep driveways.  Well, we were met by ten more people at the dock.  By our reckoning, that is a note on a net about nothing inspired twelve people to go on a hike to nowhere.  We did see the bay from some new vantage points, and had a lovely lunch at Keegan’s beach bar; and really, these hikes are little more than mobile conversations, where we change partners every ten minutes for new debates or bits of gossip.  It is really fun. 

We left Rodney Bay on Thursday, March 3^rd, at 3:00 in the morning as planned, and with highly reefed sails, had a comfortable but long day to Bequia, landing at a little after 3:00 in the afternoon, tired and salty.  We got the cockpit cleaned up and the sails away, and had a nice evening on the boat anchored well out in Lower Bay.  It was windy and swelly, but we slept well anyway.

Here, like Rodney Bay, we seem to know many people:  some, like Susea and Gene of Moody Blues, and Cathy and Greg of Indigo and Fran and Chris on Changes we’ve known for over a decade; others we’ve met a little more recently; and others still we are meeting as a result of the FOD net.  Many of us are very much on the migration back to the south to put the boats away.  Indeed, Maria and Steve of Aspen left two days ago and are already in a marina in Grenada doing the odd chores required.  We haul out a bit later, April 17^th.

The crowd here does keep us hopping in the usual manner.  We’ve had a hike up to Peggy’s Rock, another along the northern ridge to Industry Estates, and the hike yesterday in Lower Bay.  

Hiking with friends up to Peggy's Rock.  Hot and very sweaty!

From the top of Peggy's Rock, the sights are stunning.  Only thing missing is a place to buy cold beers!

We signed up for a rum shop tour last week, and got thrown together with a crowd of 30+ put on an old school bus and run over to Paget Farm; where we enjoyed walking between 6-7 interesting rum shops; complete with the local characters.  It was quite fun; and the ex-pats from the US who arranged it are to be congratulated.  All enjoyed it, and money got to move to a poorer part of the island.

The local rum shops are quaint to say the least.  The bus took us over to Paget where we were able to walk to 6 rum shops and then the bus took us back.  A good time was had by all!

We’ve been enjoying the restaurants and the town as always; and that means in large crowds with extended tables most often.  Bequia seems to be changing for the better.  There is a group of people that calls itself “Action Bequia”, that seems to have turned the corner on litter and garbage management.  Although they are involved in numerous other endeavours, we believe this is the one that will pay the most dividends.  I always felt embarrassed for the community when the smaller cruise ships disgorged their tourists ashore.  This year, as a result of the hurricane damage in the north, the number of ships is doubled, and they are seeing the cleanest Bequia that we have ever experienced.  Good for them!  Among the boats in the bay are an abnormally large number of mega yachts.  They too have fewer destinations to choose from.  They don’t seem to know just how big they are and often anchor right in with us all.  Very strange feeling indeed.

Finally, garbage and recycling in Bequia!  

Lorna and Brian of Peace and Plenty (Dawn’s sister) have sold their boat to a fellow Canadian from BC.  He took ownership last week and Lorna and Brian have been staying at a friend’s boat on the dock who were kind enough to loan it since they were back in the US.  Lorna and Brian fly back to Canada next week and will be enjoying time with their daughters and grandchildren and shoveling snow!  We will miss them here in our sailing community greatly!

Lorna and Brian - happiest day when they sell the boat.  Trev - happiest day when he buys his boat!

 

TECHNICAL 

My previous post about nefarious engine alarms can be disregarded now.  I spent some time in the port engine room, unwrapping wires and poking around, and came up with a broken wire.  I cannot tell you what its purpose is, or how it caused the alarm, but once reconnected, all is quiet!  Nothing else to report except that we have started to make our haulout lists – meaning we are smelling the barn.

Rodney Bay Marina, Saint Lucia

For the first time in our Caribbean history, we have brought Cat Tales into a marina.  What a different lifestyle this is.  More on this later.

We left you with a relatively heart-aching story on Dominica.  We did actually enjoy ourselves.  We got some charity goods delivered, including our own, purchased all goods we could to stimulate the economy: Kalinago weaving; a year’s worth of rum; the annual supply of lubricants, oils and magic sprays that Cat Tales craves; lunches and suppers in various restaurants, two PAYS suppers and a special cruisers dinner at the fort, food from the markets and stores, and an island tour.  We hiked some of our old and some new hikes, and enjoyed time with our many island friends.  However, there was once again a very short weather window in this windy season, and we took it after only 8 days in Dominica, on February 26. 

3 bottles of our favourite Demerara rum from Guyana we purchase in Dominica.  No extra charge for the Hurricane Maria damage to the bottles!

Still on the 'rum' theme, this is the Rum Shop where the 6 of us stopped the day before this picture was taken to avoid the torrential rain.  It took two rounds to stay dry on this rain event!  This is a picture of Laurie with yesterday's waitress.  She is explaining that she will NOT look at the camera across the street and will NOT pose for any photograph.  But Laurie's still happy to see her!

The trip back across the Dominica Channel was a little wet and a lot bouncy, but after a full day of sailing, we were back in relatively flat water in St. Pierre, Martinique.  An early start the next day had us back all the way around to Sainte Anne, and enjoying the bokit sandwiches and customs work at Boubou’s Snack Bar, still with Steve and Maria.  Finally able to take part in the morning FOD Net allowed us to get lots of news, including that Peace and Plenty’s sale was moving forward, and Lorna and Brian may actually be boatless or boat free in a matter of weeks, flying home from St. Lucia. 

We got in some time with friends and one more hike to the beach bars of Saline Bay, but soon heard that there was some potential foul weather coming that would send westerly wind and swells all around the compass.  

Since it was time for our migration south anyway, we crossed to Rodney Bay on Friday, March 2^nd, and came directly to the marina.  There were tremendous swells, especially near Pigeon Island; but since we were well reefed down, it was exciting without being too scary.  The following seas into the harbour behaved themselves, although I did tend to steer with much more caution.

We do not even have the equipment aboard to enjoy shore power, but we did buy a package that allows us to fill our tanks with water.  We found showers and toilets ashore, and worry that we will not adjust to normal ocean camping again.  Every time we get ashore for a beer, the tables crash together and literally dozens of friends join us or we join them.  Meals as well are crowded, loud affairs, in the 4 different restaurants along the marina boardwalk.

Steve and Maria joined us for a bus ride to Vigie Lighthouse; where at long last we found the Archives open.  I have been attempting to do some research for a little newspaper article, and I think I finally have what I need.  Vigie Light is a manned station on a promontory just outside of Castries Harbour.  The hill played an important role in a major English-French battle in the 17^th century, was host to a major occupation by the English for centuries – with significant ruins, batteries, and repurposed old buildings, and the manned radio at the lighthouse provides 24 hour coordination of the bay’s activities so that the low-flying planes at the airport do not hit sailboat masts or cruise ships.  So it is a good hike for cruisers, and it should make a nice little article.

Dawn and Aaron, one of 3 of the Vigie Lighthouse operators we hear directing traffic all night.

Native married quarters for the troops

On our way back to the marina, we spied the old workboat of our friend John Marley, who drowned here last fall.  It was a sad reminder that things and places change, and people leave our lives – often without notice.

Here sits Rasta John Marley's second to the last boat.  He never had the means to fix it up and continued for years out in the bay in nothing bigger than a bathtub.  Since he passed last summer, it is strange not to see his smiling face in Rodney Bay when we arrive.

Here is something interesting: A number of our friends have read Steve’s  (s/v Aspen) book:  “Voyage into Hell”, covering his circumnavigation and the related contact with Somali Pirates.  Well, the sailboat Quest, a primary subject in the book, is in this marina now, and we have met the new owners.  They are curiously intrigued with their own boat’s bloody past, have seeked out Steve and Maria for comment, and are enjoying their new lives aboard.  They neither changed the boat’s name, nor even repaired all the bullet holes, and seem to just enjoy the boat’s notoriety.

On our way to the grocery store, today, we took a side trip to the front beach at Reduit, part of Rodney Bay.  The worst of the swells seem to be over, but the whole front beach is busy with heavy equipment and labourers removing sand from the restaurants and parking lots.  Spinnakers – a local favourite for drinks, the Police Station (expensive property for that), and St. Lucia Resorts; all had a lot of activity; with the tourists running between them in swimsuits enjoying the extra entertainment. The swells are still hitting the beach at over 10 feet tall when they break, with a 15 second interval.

Our next stop is Bequia, and the trip requires us to leave at 3 AM to make anchor before dark, as both the rest of St. Lucia and the west coast of St. Vincent is troubled from time to time by bandits; and we would not get a restful sleep even if we remained unscathed.  The morning net tells us that there are massive waves from this anomalous weather system still messing with Bequia, so we are booked in for another night, and will stage outside in Rodney Bay for a Thursday morning departure.

The pounding waves have done quite a number on the Reduit Beach in Rodney Bay, Saint Lucia, as well as many of the other islands we frequent.  This is surge from the recent storms that have taken place along the east coast of the USA and in the North Atlantic.

TECHNICAL

I have mentioned the troubles we have had with sensor alarms for the starboard engine.  To silence them I have had to replace our alternator with a low powered spare, and replace the oil pressure sender after only two years (Nigel Calder says they seldom fail!) Now, I’ve been troubleshooting a buzzing from the port engine, and have narrowed it down to another alternator problem.  With no spare, we’ll spend the rest of the season with intermittent beeping from that alarm.  We’ll get both alternators sent to the repairman as soon as we get on the hard in Grenada. 

We took off the cockpit window that we had used to install air conditioning in Trinidad, and finally cleaned up the mess around it and rebedded it.  I took it ashore and repainted the flat black trim around it as well, so it looks quite nice, finally. 

With Lorna cleaning out her lockers in anticipation of selling, we have acquired a sewing machine and a hand sewing awl.  I have used the awl to reinstall some Velcro on the dinghy, and am very happy to have it.  Still, I imagine we will use sailmakers, not make our own ;-)

DOMINICA

We had sailed to St. Pierre, Martinique, on the 13^th of February, even though the winds were high, so we might be well placed to use a forecasted weather window coming up.  Aspen arrived a day later, and as the weather looked good for Friday, the 16^th, we noticed the area quickly filled up with other boats eyeing the opportunity.  Indeed, in dawn’s early light, looking behind us and ahead of us, we counted 24 boats on the move.  More had jumped the gun and were long gone, while others left after we turned the corner around the great volcano.  It was a one-day window, with high winds quickly returning.

It was a nice trip in 12 to 20 knots of wind, but over 6 foot waves with a 9 second interval – so quite jerky.  We got into the lee of Dominica by about 11:30, enjoying leftover pizza for lunch.

Hurricane Maria was a category 5 hurricane that sat on this island for 8 or so hours last October.  From the sea, we could see that the foliage was still sparse, and the trees everywhere appeared stunted like those on the Canadian tundra.  Landslide streaks down the mountain ridges looked like claw marks from giant hands or paws.  Steve of Aspen pointed out over the radio that it was much improved from a couple of months ago, when barely a spot of green was visible – even the brush between trees was brown from either the wind damage or blown salt.  We did not get close to shore until entering Prince Rupert Bay itself; and the trees on the hills and the Cabrits were in sorry shape to us.  Buildings we did not know existed could be seen all over the place, albeit typically with no roofs or with roofs of blue tarpaulin.

About 80 percent of telephone poles have been compromised.  Wires have to be tied to trees to get cars under them.

These blue tarps are found everywhere.  We all know that a tarp down here is only good for 6 months to a year, so what's next if they don't have money for roofs.

We went ashore on Saturday, and walked through town.  There was significant damage everywhere, with wires willy-nilly, tilted and broken poles, and houses in various states of destruction among those with good or barely damaged roofs.  Very few cars were left undented or without broken windows.  Piles of debris are everywhere, with almost all homes losing their electronics and electrical appliances to the blown salt water that entered everywhere.  However, the people seem happy, resilient, and friendly – very welcoming to us.  The bananas and citrus fruit remain unavailable at the market and in the stores, but they had excellent tomatoes and cucumbers; and chicken and fish were also quite available – so no starvation problem.  We finished our tour with a walk up to see Albert, one of the PAYS (Portsmouth Area Yacht Security) members, in the hospital.  He had a lower leg amputation as a result of sicle cell anemia, just before the hurricane, and had just returned to hospital after infection complications.  He said his own house had blown down, and his ex-wife and her boyfriend had temporarily taken him in.  Not a great situation.

On Sunday, we joined Aspen and two other couples on a tour of the island, primarily to deliver some materials to the Kalinago Indian community on the east coast.  The bundles of materials were initially purchased for Dominica by Kristen of s/v Silk Pajamas; but she had some ear and dental problems, then problems with her aging mother that called her home; and Cat Tales, Aspen, and Prism split the loot to get the job done.  Steve and I found a hardware store in St. Pierre and supplemented the loot with more tarpaulins, roofing screws and nails.  We left the goods with a healthcare nurse at a clinic near the Kalinago Reserve, and completed our tour of the island.

The east coast, and especially the Kalinago region, were devastated – there is no other real word to describe it.  We were shown: empty slabs on hillsides, where the whole house flew away – sometimes with the inhabitants; people living under tarps with only two or three of the original home’s walls; steep river valleys where the houses along the sides were blown away, and the inhabitants, when found at all were found as a result of the smell of decay; where the steep mountains turned in a mountain cleft, typically half the road was missing as a result of the rain overwhelming the culvert, and taking the guide rain, telephone poles, culvert pipe, and half the road 300 feet or more down the mountain – cars just ignored the danger, as did our driver.  The constancy of the destroyed vegetation got to where you stopped noticing it.  Our driver reminded us that some of the damage, especially to roads and bridges, was only partially repaired after Hurricane Erika in late 2015; and Maria repeated much of the damage, sometimes with much more violence.

The mud has been removed from the base of these houses. 

This is our driver Winston showing us how he curled up in a barrel for 5 hours to stay dry.  He's one of the lucky ones who didn't loose a roof.  Good thing he's small... (Sorry I couldn't get this photo turned!)

We returned to Portsmouth by a western road.  The west side has more in the way of flood plains at the mouths of the rivers; and these, sadly, were inhabited with many Dominican homes.  We did not visit Roseau, the capital; but were told that the tree trunks, branches, mud, and large rocks were piled six feet high through much of the downtown.  We did see significant villages with 2 feet of mud making the homes mostly uninhabitable.  Many of these had lost their roofs anyway.  The roads include many component bridges (Bailey Bridges); and in one location the driver (Winston) explained the whole concrete bridge and its abutments had been washed out to deep water by the river, assisted by the trees, muck and boulders.  On both sides of the island, new beaches still exist in rocky areas with no beach in memory; wholly made up of the black sand washed down from the mountains.

Along the shore of Portsmouth, you can see the damage done by the storm swells.  Some homes were destroyed in this way, and the shoreline is certainly different.  Our friend Bounty’s home lost its back kitchen, and he is hoping he can rebuild it at some point.  The Cabrits dock, very much necessary for the small cruise ships that arrive for the ecotourism, is in a bad way – repairable, but where will the money come from?

This is the cruise ship dock at the Cabrits Fort, completely stripped and non-usable.

Water is delivered to communities that need it.

Again, we must speak of the resilience of the people.  They are willing to tell their own stories of their survival, and insist that Dominica will recover.  Our driver, Winston, stopped at his own house, and displayed the juice barrel he put on his bed, then crawled into to stay dry during the storm.  Survivors talk about the wind screaming like banshees, and the pressure changes hurting their ears.  The people talk of the herculean tasks that have already been done:  clearing the roads, unblocking the rivers and streams, installing the bridges, installing some power, installing the tarpaulins and recovering what belongings they could, maintaining the shelters – most still needed.  They await more aid, and certainly more materials to fix their homes, those who have the money.  Dominica has always been a struggling island, second to Haiti for Caribbean poverty.  They had worked hard to promote ecotourism in the absence of beaches, and had made great strides.  This is a severe setback.

Tour guides are working, sailboats are calling, some cruise ships are returning, some vacation homes are back up and running, some construction sites are still continuing.  We look around to buy things that we might need for the season to help stimulate the damaged economy.  If any of you want to help, I recommend the Dominica Red Cross, with donation easily done on line.

Dawn and Maria on a hike in the Cabrits.  The trails there have been cleaned, but the foliage is not as dense at it once was.  It's greening up somewhat, and we expect that  next year, the jungle will return!

We are enjoying Yachtie Appreciation Week, spending money like crazy whenever we have an opportunity.  We’ve bought our oils and fuels, and sprays that the boat needs, and eat and drink offshore as often as we can; hoping that the economy feels it.  Tourism is a source of economic charity, and we’re part of it.   We’ll be here for a little while yet, as the high winds are still hounding us.  Our plan is to turn around and head back south, stopping in Ste Anne, Rodney Bay, and especially Bequia.

WE SAILED? (Yup... but still in Martinique)

Yes, but not far.  On Thursday, February 1^st, we determined we would start our trip around the southwest corner of Martinique and head for Dominica.  After the morning FOD Net, we hauled up anchor, rolled out the jib, and gently sailed for about 2.5 hours pretty much downwind.  We passed between the main island and Diamond Rock, and then carried on, still under jib only, to a little bay called Anse Chaudiere.  With nobody there, we had a quiet day and night.  Dawn checked for the underwater wildlife while I cleaned the propellers and boat bottom; both of us happy to be in clean, clear, water after so long. 

You'll have to look hard to see the octopus here.  Dawn just happened to see it moving along and at this point, it has turned the same colour as the rock and never would have been detected (center of the picture).

Steve and Maria (s/v Aspen) followed the next day, and after enjoying the water as we had, they climbed on board for one of Dawn’s famous “one-pot-wonders”; chicken, as is most often the case.  The evening was enjoyable, but at first light, Steve let us know that the snorkeling had aggravated a tooth he was nursing, and they up-anchored to return to Ste. Anne for dental advice.  Dawn and I carried on to Grande Anse d’Arlet, just a mile away; where we anchored off a beautiful white beach well used by European tourists.  Today marks one week since we’ve arrived here.

One item on our “do list” was the hike of Morne Larcher, we went ashore to figure out the bus schedule.  Morne Larcher is the large, dead volcano that overlooks Diamond Rock.  It has a documented hike, but the hike is too far away to get to without transportation assistance.  After figuring the buses out, we returned to shore to try out a plan.  We hopped on a large bus that actually took us for a two-hour tour of the whole peninsula.  It was a fabulous ride past anchorages we had tried in the past and areas we had never laid eyes on.  We were dropped off at the same bus stop, only 4 Euros lighter.

When in the French islands, baguettes are a must!

After enjoying the rest of the weekend with reading aboard, swimming, and a very sweet lunch ashore, we set up for a bus trip to the mountain to get this hike underway.  We arrived at 9:00, and had a great hike, just the two of us.  We climbed 410 metres up a drainage swale at 45 degrees, enjoyed the views, talked to people as far away as St. Lucia by hand-held radio, climbed down the other side, and made it to a lovely place called “Snack Fredo” for lunch and beer.  Yes, our legs were more than wobbly.  We caught the next bus back to Cat Tales after lunch, and floated around the end of the boat, exhausted but with a sense of accomplishment.

Dawn, heading up and up!  It was a steady hour and a half to get up to the top of this one!

The view was an exceptional reward!   Now...for the down, down, down!

A view of Diamond Rock taken from our trip around the corner of Martinique.  At the right is the mountain we hiked.

At present, we are sitting through another windy cycle; one that just seems to have no end.  We read, work through sudoko puzzles, go for short walks while our legs heal, and deal with the small chores.  We’ve also been working on another article for the Caribbean Compass, and will send it away today.  By the way, we have one article just published in February’s issue.  You can read it here:  http://www.caribbeancompass.com/online.html

Among the pictures, you can see a well camouflaged large octopus, and a fantastic bit of art on a boat driven ashore by Hurricane Maria; as well as some hiking pictures.  The old steam-driven cane crusher was in a back yard, just off the road, with no interpretive plaques.  The yard contained concrete vats, boilers and an old chimney, and a dilapidated building.  Dating at least back to 1850, and even if it is fantastically impressive, it is just a little reminder of what it was all about, years ago.  Funny to see such large machines looking ready to go, in a back yard.

Cane crushing equipment we just happened to stumble upon during a walk.  There wasn't a sign, but the place was well tended.  A nice view into their past!

This poor boat landed on the beach during one of the hurricanes.  We have no idea who did the artwork, but it's much appreciated!

TECHNICAL

Amazingly, and scary to declare, we do not seem to have any issues really dogging us at the moment.  Perhaps polishing some stainless and waxing sections of the boat would be wise over the next few days while waiting for calmer weather.